Saturday, June 26, 2010

Red Shirts, or not.....

Hey all!
how's it going out there?
We have finally made it to Thailand! I am so happy, and feel like our trip is just getting started! We left Cambodia yesterday at noon, and arrived in Bangkok via Bus around 730pm. The trip was totally uneventful, and the border crossing was chill, besides the 350m i had to carry my super heavy bag filled with Angkor Tshirts through the sweltering sun from the Cambodia side to the Thai side. At the border we switched from a crowded Cambodian "VIP" bus, to a super nice extra large Mercedes Mini Van type thing.... a great way to travel!
The bus dropped us off in Th Khao San, the "backpacker ghetto" of Bangkok. Backpackers, definitely. Ghetto, not so much.
While there definitely isn't any Ritz Carltons in sight, this is a pretty chill neighborhood, and it isn't run down at all(in perspective.) the neighborhood is basically one street, that runs a few hundred meters, with a couple bustling streets around it. Th Khao San, the main street in the neighborhood, is filled with bars, clubs, tshirts, food stands, tour agencies, cafes, and anything else a young tourist might want.
We spent an hour or so wandering around last night looking for the best place to stay, and were a little torn between whether to choose a rather run down private room with a fan and bathroom, or a rather run down dormitory with 4 beds, AC, and no private bathroom for the same price, 300baht(around 9US.) We eventually opted for the AC dorm at the Rainbow Guest House, directly above the Rainbow Indian Restaurant. We have had private rooms since Hanoi, and thought it would be fun to be a bit more social, maybe meet some people, and enjoy the AC.... plus this place has awesome WiFi, so that was a big plus(and allowed us to quickly post all the pics seen below!)
After checking in, we didn't do too much, just wandered around, got some awesome Pad Thai w/ chicken for a dollar, and then some Thai Soup with onions, cabbage, tofu and pork that was kinda like the inside of the wantons in wanton soup. The soup was awesome, and was a great intro to Thai cuisine. The pad thai is basically the same as you would expect, hardly different from the US at all. I'm not sure whether i'm happy or sad about that, but it is definitely tasty. The street vendors have a big round flat griddle on their little cart, with 4 or 5 different kinds of noodles all set up in a row for you to see. You get to choose which kind of noodle you want, then you pick egg or no egg, shrimp, chicken, or vegetarian.
Today, we woke up and caught the river boat bus type thing down the river towards the main part of town. From there, we cought the Bangkok Sky Train(Basically an L) from the Saphan Taksin stop to the Siam stop at the heart of the shopping district. First, we went to the large Siam Shopping mall, which is similar to a fancy US shopping mall. We just walked around there for a few minutes, just long enough for me to check out the G shocks at the Casio store(and find out that they are basically the cheapest prices in the world!!!) From there we walked a few blocks towards the Bangkok Arts and Culture Center, which has been descriped as a rip off of the Guggenheim in NYC. The arts center had some really cool exhibits, was free, and was a fun place to walk around and cool off for a few minutes.
From there, we headed a few blocks NW to the house of Jim Thompson, a famous American-Australian Silk Trader who mysteriously disappearead in 1967. He is famous for bringing Thai style to western cultures, and made a fortune importing silk from Thailand to the west. He is beloved by the Thai people for embracing their culture and style, and glorifying their heritage to parts of the world that never knew about it previously. His home is absolutely amazing, and it is impeccably furnished and designed. It was built out of 6 older traditional Thai homes made of teak, combining all of them in to one cohesive building on the banks of the canal(Bangkok was described as the Venice of the east before modernizing recently.) His house is breathtaking, and the tour begins by entering and wandering through the large gardens, which are absolutely gorgeous. His house is built on stilts, to protect from flooding, which is traditional Thai style. The area under the main structure is a large open room with beautiful sculptures, amazing wood carvings, priceless large ceramics from around the world, and stunning garden views. There are several small houses around the property that were used for rice storage, the maids quarters, and the gardeners home, which have all been turned in to exhibition halls of his amazing ceramics and silk collections. The inside of his home(which we were not allowed to take pictures of), is styled with as much taste as any home in the world. While using simple architectural structures, 6 older rather modest homes combined, the whole unit is combined seamlessly. There is traditional Thai woodwork, collections of chinese and SE Asian pottery that are as good as any scene in museums, italian marble floors in just the right places, 300 year old silk tapestries, antiques he collected at markets from all over asia, chandeleirs from europe, and all kinds of awesome unique pieces that he created. His lights in the living room are antique drums turned upside down. in his bedroom he has what looks like a dollhouse with a glass front that is actually a maze for mice that rich children in China used as a toy a hundred years ago(Jin had never seen one, just heard of them.) He has astrological charts on the wall from specific days 60 years ago, antique oversized books, Thai day beds, all mixed together with thousand year old buddhist statues he collected, etc! It was truly awesome, and made me want to live in a house with just shutters, no AC, and a killer garden with Koi Pond! It is a fantastic example of how to tastefully combine different cultural relics, antiques, funky swap meet finds, and combine them all in to a museum quality home! I was totally impressed(in case you haven't figured that out by my writing!)
From there, we went to the MBK, the newest and largest shopping mall in Bangkok. All these malls and the house were very close to one another, within 6 blocks. We walked around the mall for a while, which is basically a huge indoor market full of fake western clothes, electronics real and fake, CD's, video games, and tons of different kinds of food. We walked around for a while looking at random stuff, then headed to a Sushi conveyer belt/hot pot all you can eat place. For 9 bucks, i ate for an hour straight! The conveyer belt had raw meat, fish, and vegetables that you could drop in your personal hot pot and cook to your liking, while there was a buffet with a few choice Nigiri selections and some tasty rolls. I know, i know, Sushi on our second day in Thailand? well, we've been craving it since China, and haven't seen a decent, affordable place in months! We both assumed it would be our last chance to eat cheap, good sushi before making it to Singapore, Jakarta, or wherever else has fancy sushi buffets(i'm assuming they aren't in Ko Pha Ngan.)
We then hopped the Sky Train back to a night market which takes place on a couple small alleys. The night market had tons of fake stuff(as always), a lot of crazy knives, tazers, and funny t shirts, as well as a healthy dose of strip club, and a morsel of the famous Thai lady boy scene, along with some awesome bars that we hung out at and watched the world cup. Amazingly, after the Uruguay Korea game ended, we were able to find an honest cab driver who drove us back to our backpacker ghetto neighborhood for just 2 bucks and change! The big thing in bangkok, is that all the cab drivers and tuk tuk drivers offer you really cheap rides, but want to take you to "just one stop" to some random store or tour agency where they will then harass you to buy something. It is really annoying, especially cause we have offered to pay normal rates for a normal ride, only to be told that we could pay 25 cents, but we just have to make one stop for 5 minutes. This is one of the oldest BS scams in Bangkok, and apparently leads to hours of being dragged around from stupid place to stupid place being annoyed in to buying something. Additionally, most cabs here try to just offer ignorant tourists a set price for a ride, which is usually double what the meter would charge.... Luckily, we got a normal cab to drive us straight back, which was a refreshing change from the theme of the past day or so.
Overall Bangkok is awesome. We havent seen any hint of the rally's or protests that were so often in the news a month or two ago. Besides a couple random police officers at checkpoints in the city looking in cars and metal detectors going in to the malls, there is basically nothing out of the ordinary. Apparently, things come and go quite fast in this city. The city is bustling, fun, and really modern, and there is tons to do, great food and nothing really to complain about. I think that this is probably a great time to see the city, as tourism is a bit quieter than normal, and people are eager to do business and be hospitable. The city is modern, but has some great colonial style buildings mixed among the urban scene, creating a really beautiful touch of old and new. There is easy places to get water, 7-11's everywhere, and tons of great western food, bakeries, coffee shops, all mixed in with tons of amazing thai restaurants. I know, it sounds bad to be happy about all the western stuff, but it is nice to be able to get a normal, fair price for a cold water without having to bargain just to get the local price for a liter of water.) The city is beautiful, and riding down the river on the bus boat was really a great way to see the beautiful temples, churches, and skyscrapers that dot the horizon. I never really realized how much was actually in Bangkok, but there definitely is a lot to do.... maybe not huge tourist sites that are world famous, but just wandering around and soaking up the culture is fun.

A couple of notes..... The city has some sort of connection to SF. I found a place called "Villains SF", a fancy shoe store just like the one on Haight st. I'm not sure if they ripped off the name, or if it is connected, but it certainly seemed so. There is tons of cool skate shops and modern clothes places. There is tons of hebrew in our neighborhood, as well as a Chabad, and many Israeli people. One of the first people we spoke with, Omri, who has been working at a tour agency here for 9 months, is from Israel. I asked him whats with all the Hebrew everywhere and he said that Thai people(especially girls,) love Israeli guys and culture, but couldn't really elaborate past that. I'm still not sure what is up with it, but there is hebrew everywhere here in Khao San.

Thailand Vs. Argentina. The first thing I noticed as we drove in to Thailand was that it totally resembles Argentina. Maybe not in an absolutely literal way, but overall the vibe is very similar. Both countries look similar to the other countries surrounding them, but are much more developed and modern. The roads here are great, and it was so nice to go a normal speed on the highway and not risk a head on collision every 20 seconds. There is beautiful fields, mountains and countryside, clean and not so run down. Even in the middle of nowhere, people live at a nice standard, and are not totally poor and pennyless. But yeah, overall the country(from the little I have seen so far) is basically like Argentina, very western at times, but also uniquely a part of it's region. It is nice to be able to experience the vibe of SE asia, while also having a small taste of the luxuries of the west, even if that is just a set price for water, or a quick drive down a well paved road(I know sounds bad.) All in all, Thailand is by far the most at home i've felt in a long time, although I still think Luang Prabang is amazing!

3 comments:

  1. I love BKK! And Thailand in general. Try to make it up to Chang Mai and Pai if you can...Great caves up there and at dusk you can watch the birds fly in and the bats fly out/by the millions. Pai is a backpackers paradise and of course they sell buckets of booze. for me, i loved the presence of monks and hooping with the kids. there is a train from BKK. And go to Lumpini Park. There are jugglers there and at 6pm everyone stops what they are doing to listen to the National anthem Quite a trip. There's a ton of stuff to do in BKK and the sex/weird stuff is avoidable and over blown by the press and thrill seekers. Enjoy. Are you doing Indonesia too?

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  2. oh and jump down to Krabi island...paradise!

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  3. Bangkok sounds great -- as do you! Sounds as though you are excited to be somewhere that feels more comfortable. Aunt Sara loved Bangkok -- and that was back in the 50's! she was one of the first real tourists!
    The Israeli connection is likely that many Israelis come after their years in the service...they travel for a year to decompress...and many go to India...where the computer keyboards are in hebrew in many places! I assume Thailand is the same. Thompson house is so impressive....especially with your ecclectic attention to detail. I have also heard amazing stuff about Chang Mai...wish I was there! Mom

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