Hello!
We are now in Pai, up in the NW corner of Thailand. We have been here for 2 nights now. It is a really small little mountain town, not unlike most of the smaller towns nestled among the rockies in colorado(nederland?) There is nothing much really going on in Pai, just lots of tourists and places selling tshirts and funny design stuff, restaurants, bars, hotels, etc. The town is really quaint and is right next door to a very muddy river. The highlights so far are the really quiet vibe, the terraced rice fields(with rice blooming), and our Elephant Ride!
Just to fill in the past 10 days or so, we took a boat from Ko Pha Ngan to Surat Thani, then a bus up to Bangkok. We spent 2 nights in BKK, before hopping on an overnight bus to Chiang Mai. Chiang Mai is unofficially known as the culture capital of Thailand, and has tons of things to do. It is a small college town, kind of like Boulder. It is really pretty, and there is a nice, central old town area that is surrounded by a moat and wall. There isn't a whole lot to do in Chiang Mai. We mostly walked around and checked out the old town and the Wat's(buddhist temples), went to the markets, we rented a scooter and drove around the town, read our books, and cooked Thai Food! Yes, we actually got to cook something!
Our first night in Chiang Mai, we stayed in the most popular guest house, the Julie Guest House, lol. That was fun, and there was tons of people hanging out, but it was a verrry young scene, and most of the people were just kind of rushing about, not really trying to relax and kick back like us. We were wandering around our second day, after going to the market, and I saw a cool reggae bar, and just wanted to take a look. We walked in and bumped in to a really nice guy from England, named Dan, and soon made friends. We found out that the Giant Guest House, where Dan was staying offered free water, WIFI, coffee and tea, free bicycles to ride, and often times free rides to fun places. We were sold immedietely, so we switched hotels, and moved to the slightly more expensive Giant Guest House. Julie was 180 baht, Giant was 250(6dollars vs 8.) The extra money was well worth it, as one of the owners(?) of the place was an experienced professional Thai cook, Mama! Mama was really funny and spoke almost no english, but her thai cooking was amazing! every day, she would give someone a list of things to buy at the market, then we would go, buy them and come back. Once home, Mama would cook them for us while we watched, or instruct us on how to cook them. Often times, we even made things two or three different times in a row just so moma could make sure that we followed along. Sometimes Mama would cook something, then watch while we cooked it immedietely after. It was so fun, and we really learned a lot! It was very impressive and interesting being in the presence of someone who so easily cooked such amazing food! The market was great too, having bean sprouts for 15 cents(a strawberry container size), baby corn for 15 cents, and enough crushed peanuts for 15 pad thais for 15 cents.... Eggs were 10cents each,a pound of fresh noodles was 15 cents, and a pound of chicken or shrimp was roughly 1 dollar! So, we could make Pad Thai or Pad Se Ew for 6 people for about 3 to 5 dollars easy!
It was so nice to have a kitchen for the first time in months, and Jin and I really took advantage of it(esp Jin!) We saved lots of money on cooking and didnt have to go out to eat for a few days, which was great! The highlight was the Masaman curry that we made from scratch. It took about an hour just to crush up the curry paste in the mortar in pestle, but it was welllll worth it! Mama told us before hand that it was lots of work, but we wanted to make it anyways, and it was lots of work, but we had curry for about 4 days straight.... We were both so happy to finally get sick of Thai Food after 6 weeks of nothing but.
So, we had a great time relaxing at our reggae wifi cooking school guest house, but after 8 days, we decided to move on to Pai, 4 hours up in to the mountains from Chiang Mai. We are now in Pai, and it is really hot! Today is super sunny and we are currently sitting in an air conditioned internet cafe trying to figure out our next moves. We are hopping on a bus to Chiang Mai tomorrow, then another overnight bus to Bangkok tomorrow night. Tuesday, we will wake up in Bangkok, and then catch another bus for 14 hours down to Phuket. We are hoping to spend 2 nights or so on Ko Phi Phi before our flight to Jakarta on the 22nd. As I have been writing this, I just booked us 2 tickets from Bali to Singapore on the 20th of September, thus fulfilling our requirements to get Indonesian Visas(proof of departure.) So, all is now in place, and we are thinking about coming back to Thailand for another month or so to study more with Mama, or whether to go back to China.... Details to come.
However, it is worth noting that our trip to Singapore almost perfectly corresponds with the F1 night race going on on the streets of Singapore from the 24th to 26th of Sept! So, we could be in for another bout with the F1!!!!
Ok, we are now ready to go back to the heat! Pictures to follow!
Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Monday, July 26, 2010
Koh Pha Ngan
Hey Out There!
We have officially made it to Koh Pha Ngan (or Phangan) on the east coast of Southern Thailand. This island is most famous for being sandwhiched in between koh samui(resort central) and Koh Tao(scuba central), and also for its once a month beach bash celebrating the full moon. Well, tonight is the full moon, but because of the Buddha's birthday party today, the bash has been postponed until the 28th.
We left Koh Tao yesterday morning after spending a couple of days there. It was really beautiful, with giant boulders stacked all over the edges of the beaches and in the water, but unfortunately had more of an exclusive resort vibe, everything being overpriced, even at the ubiquitous 7-11.
The boat ride here was crazy!!!! A slightly stormy sky, and restless water turned our ferry ride in to a harrowing experience. At one point I was slightly worried we might actually be in a bit of trouble.... The waves were huge! and crashing all around and over us... Although in retrospect the weather wasnt that bad, so i'm sure the boat goes through worse. Either way, everyone on the boat was looking horrible, almost no one seemed unphased. People were throwing up everywhere, and amazingly, I was not one of them! I just bumped my ipod up to an obscene volume, and listened to the funniest rap music i could find, hoping to distract myself with an onslaught of 3minute tunes. Jin even managed to sleep for an hour or so. Regardless, we made it here, and it is quite nice. The island, being in between two much more famous and exclusive islands, is home to many locals, and has a more undeveloped and chill vibe, a bit more welcoming to backpackers who dont have the advantage of spending the more valuable euro or british pound.
We booked our resort in advance of coming to the island, as all the hostels on hostel world and hostels.com were booked or going for around 25 dollars a night for a not so special bungalow. we managed to get a bungalow at a legitimate resort for 300 baht a night, or $9.25. We reserved it at a travel agency in Koh Tao, fearing the worst when we arrived. When we got to the resort, we were quite impressed! Our bungalow is just a stones throw from the ocean, and it is a very nice and upscale little concrete building with a king sized bed, mosquito net, a big, nice bathroom, a big front porch, and tons of (glass!) windows! basically our bungalow from koh chang on steroids! We aer a bit cut off from the world, but the restaurant there isnt bad, nor too expensive, and we have our own beach and a beautiful infinity pool overlooking the ocean. Hammocks abound, and there are tons of nice dogs and cats, little paths to explore, and chill people to talk to! So, we are basically on full vacation mode this week, just kicking back, reading and taking it easy, staring at the ocean, etc!
The computer is now officially broken, so we may try to buy one in Surat Thani, or possibly go back up to BKK on our way to Chiang Mai, or somewhere else. We have now booked flights from Phuket to Jakarta, Indonesia on the 22nd of August for 100 bucks each, so we have a solid 3.5 weeks left here in the land of Thai. We might go down to the far south, near the Malay border, may head back to Bangkok and Koh Chang, or might head up to Chiang Mai, Pai, or even Burma to spend some of our remaining time before our flight. All is well(besides the comp), and we have tons of good books, and are now fully loaded on snacks for our very cut off resort retreat!
Today, we woke up and read for a while, then headed 20m to our restaurant where I had a giant cheeseburger(in paradise) and Jin had her favorite noodle soup. We braved the steep .5-1km driveway to the main road, and then went on an hour long walk up and down the hills of the island circling artery. We made it to 7-11, and bought all that was needed for the next five days. Tons of cookies, chocolate, bread, milk, chips, apples(our first in a long long time, usually they are totally overpriced in thailand, roughly 1 apple is the same as a pineapple normally!), and a soccer ball looking hand held drink cooler for the full moon party! So we are in the middle of heading back to the resort now, but decided to pit stop here and use the expensive 2 dollar an hour internet at the town, instead of the 4 dollar an hour internet back at the resort!
Because the comp is down, we wont be putting any pics up for the next week. if anyone wants to check out our resort, Haad Gruad Resort, here is the website, http://haadgruadresort.com/
if you go to the "facilities and services" link on the top, and then head to the bottom right picture(image 14 of 14), you can see our bungalow, or the one next to ours on the top of the picture... they look the same.
anyways, i have to go, our hour is up!
Peace and Love
ben and Jin
We have officially made it to Koh Pha Ngan (or Phangan) on the east coast of Southern Thailand. This island is most famous for being sandwhiched in between koh samui(resort central) and Koh Tao(scuba central), and also for its once a month beach bash celebrating the full moon. Well, tonight is the full moon, but because of the Buddha's birthday party today, the bash has been postponed until the 28th.
We left Koh Tao yesterday morning after spending a couple of days there. It was really beautiful, with giant boulders stacked all over the edges of the beaches and in the water, but unfortunately had more of an exclusive resort vibe, everything being overpriced, even at the ubiquitous 7-11.
The boat ride here was crazy!!!! A slightly stormy sky, and restless water turned our ferry ride in to a harrowing experience. At one point I was slightly worried we might actually be in a bit of trouble.... The waves were huge! and crashing all around and over us... Although in retrospect the weather wasnt that bad, so i'm sure the boat goes through worse. Either way, everyone on the boat was looking horrible, almost no one seemed unphased. People were throwing up everywhere, and amazingly, I was not one of them! I just bumped my ipod up to an obscene volume, and listened to the funniest rap music i could find, hoping to distract myself with an onslaught of 3minute tunes. Jin even managed to sleep for an hour or so. Regardless, we made it here, and it is quite nice. The island, being in between two much more famous and exclusive islands, is home to many locals, and has a more undeveloped and chill vibe, a bit more welcoming to backpackers who dont have the advantage of spending the more valuable euro or british pound.
We booked our resort in advance of coming to the island, as all the hostels on hostel world and hostels.com were booked or going for around 25 dollars a night for a not so special bungalow. we managed to get a bungalow at a legitimate resort for 300 baht a night, or $9.25. We reserved it at a travel agency in Koh Tao, fearing the worst when we arrived. When we got to the resort, we were quite impressed! Our bungalow is just a stones throw from the ocean, and it is a very nice and upscale little concrete building with a king sized bed, mosquito net, a big, nice bathroom, a big front porch, and tons of (glass!) windows! basically our bungalow from koh chang on steroids! We aer a bit cut off from the world, but the restaurant there isnt bad, nor too expensive, and we have our own beach and a beautiful infinity pool overlooking the ocean. Hammocks abound, and there are tons of nice dogs and cats, little paths to explore, and chill people to talk to! So, we are basically on full vacation mode this week, just kicking back, reading and taking it easy, staring at the ocean, etc!
The computer is now officially broken, so we may try to buy one in Surat Thani, or possibly go back up to BKK on our way to Chiang Mai, or somewhere else. We have now booked flights from Phuket to Jakarta, Indonesia on the 22nd of August for 100 bucks each, so we have a solid 3.5 weeks left here in the land of Thai. We might go down to the far south, near the Malay border, may head back to Bangkok and Koh Chang, or might head up to Chiang Mai, Pai, or even Burma to spend some of our remaining time before our flight. All is well(besides the comp), and we have tons of good books, and are now fully loaded on snacks for our very cut off resort retreat!
Today, we woke up and read for a while, then headed 20m to our restaurant where I had a giant cheeseburger(in paradise) and Jin had her favorite noodle soup. We braved the steep .5-1km driveway to the main road, and then went on an hour long walk up and down the hills of the island circling artery. We made it to 7-11, and bought all that was needed for the next five days. Tons of cookies, chocolate, bread, milk, chips, apples(our first in a long long time, usually they are totally overpriced in thailand, roughly 1 apple is the same as a pineapple normally!), and a soccer ball looking hand held drink cooler for the full moon party! So we are in the middle of heading back to the resort now, but decided to pit stop here and use the expensive 2 dollar an hour internet at the town, instead of the 4 dollar an hour internet back at the resort!
Because the comp is down, we wont be putting any pics up for the next week. if anyone wants to check out our resort, Haad Gruad Resort, here is the website, http://haadgruadresort.com/
if you go to the "facilities and services" link on the top, and then head to the bottom right picture(image 14 of 14), you can see our bungalow, or the one next to ours on the top of the picture... they look the same.
anyways, i have to go, our hour is up!
Peace and Love
ben and Jin
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Red Shirts, or not.....
Hey all!
how's it going out there?
We have finally made it to Thailand! I am so happy, and feel like our trip is just getting started! We left Cambodia yesterday at noon, and arrived in Bangkok via Bus around 730pm. The trip was totally uneventful, and the border crossing was chill, besides the 350m i had to carry my super heavy bag filled with Angkor Tshirts through the sweltering sun from the Cambodia side to the Thai side. At the border we switched from a crowded Cambodian "VIP" bus, to a super nice extra large Mercedes Mini Van type thing.... a great way to travel!
The bus dropped us off in Th Khao San, the "backpacker ghetto" of Bangkok. Backpackers, definitely. Ghetto, not so much.
While there definitely isn't any Ritz Carltons in sight, this is a pretty chill neighborhood, and it isn't run down at all(in perspective.) the neighborhood is basically one street, that runs a few hundred meters, with a couple bustling streets around it. Th Khao San, the main street in the neighborhood, is filled with bars, clubs, tshirts, food stands, tour agencies, cafes, and anything else a young tourist might want.
We spent an hour or so wandering around last night looking for the best place to stay, and were a little torn between whether to choose a rather run down private room with a fan and bathroom, or a rather run down dormitory with 4 beds, AC, and no private bathroom for the same price, 300baht(around 9US.) We eventually opted for the AC dorm at the Rainbow Guest House, directly above the Rainbow Indian Restaurant. We have had private rooms since Hanoi, and thought it would be fun to be a bit more social, maybe meet some people, and enjoy the AC.... plus this place has awesome WiFi, so that was a big plus(and allowed us to quickly post all the pics seen below!)
After checking in, we didn't do too much, just wandered around, got some awesome Pad Thai w/ chicken for a dollar, and then some Thai Soup with onions, cabbage, tofu and pork that was kinda like the inside of the wantons in wanton soup. The soup was awesome, and was a great intro to Thai cuisine. The pad thai is basically the same as you would expect, hardly different from the US at all. I'm not sure whether i'm happy or sad about that, but it is definitely tasty. The street vendors have a big round flat griddle on their little cart, with 4 or 5 different kinds of noodles all set up in a row for you to see. You get to choose which kind of noodle you want, then you pick egg or no egg, shrimp, chicken, or vegetarian.
Today, we woke up and caught the river boat bus type thing down the river towards the main part of town. From there, we cought the Bangkok Sky Train(Basically an L) from the Saphan Taksin stop to the Siam stop at the heart of the shopping district. First, we went to the large Siam Shopping mall, which is similar to a fancy US shopping mall. We just walked around there for a few minutes, just long enough for me to check out the G shocks at the Casio store(and find out that they are basically the cheapest prices in the world!!!) From there we walked a few blocks towards the Bangkok Arts and Culture Center, which has been descriped as a rip off of the Guggenheim in NYC. The arts center had some really cool exhibits, was free, and was a fun place to walk around and cool off for a few minutes.
From there, we headed a few blocks NW to the house of Jim Thompson, a famous American-Australian Silk Trader who mysteriously disappearead in 1967. He is famous for bringing Thai style to western cultures, and made a fortune importing silk from Thailand to the west. He is beloved by the Thai people for embracing their culture and style, and glorifying their heritage to parts of the world that never knew about it previously. His home is absolutely amazing, and it is impeccably furnished and designed. It was built out of 6 older traditional Thai homes made of teak, combining all of them in to one cohesive building on the banks of the canal(Bangkok was described as the Venice of the east before modernizing recently.) His house is breathtaking, and the tour begins by entering and wandering through the large gardens, which are absolutely gorgeous. His house is built on stilts, to protect from flooding, which is traditional Thai style. The area under the main structure is a large open room with beautiful sculptures, amazing wood carvings, priceless large ceramics from around the world, and stunning garden views. There are several small houses around the property that were used for rice storage, the maids quarters, and the gardeners home, which have all been turned in to exhibition halls of his amazing ceramics and silk collections. The inside of his home(which we were not allowed to take pictures of), is styled with as much taste as any home in the world. While using simple architectural structures, 6 older rather modest homes combined, the whole unit is combined seamlessly. There is traditional Thai woodwork, collections of chinese and SE Asian pottery that are as good as any scene in museums, italian marble floors in just the right places, 300 year old silk tapestries, antiques he collected at markets from all over asia, chandeleirs from europe, and all kinds of awesome unique pieces that he created. His lights in the living room are antique drums turned upside down. in his bedroom he has what looks like a dollhouse with a glass front that is actually a maze for mice that rich children in China used as a toy a hundred years ago(Jin had never seen one, just heard of them.) He has astrological charts on the wall from specific days 60 years ago, antique oversized books, Thai day beds, all mixed together with thousand year old buddhist statues he collected, etc! It was truly awesome, and made me want to live in a house with just shutters, no AC, and a killer garden with Koi Pond! It is a fantastic example of how to tastefully combine different cultural relics, antiques, funky swap meet finds, and combine them all in to a museum quality home! I was totally impressed(in case you haven't figured that out by my writing!)
From there, we went to the MBK, the newest and largest shopping mall in Bangkok. All these malls and the house were very close to one another, within 6 blocks. We walked around the mall for a while, which is basically a huge indoor market full of fake western clothes, electronics real and fake, CD's, video games, and tons of different kinds of food. We walked around for a while looking at random stuff, then headed to a Sushi conveyer belt/hot pot all you can eat place. For 9 bucks, i ate for an hour straight! The conveyer belt had raw meat, fish, and vegetables that you could drop in your personal hot pot and cook to your liking, while there was a buffet with a few choice Nigiri selections and some tasty rolls. I know, i know, Sushi on our second day in Thailand? well, we've been craving it since China, and haven't seen a decent, affordable place in months! We both assumed it would be our last chance to eat cheap, good sushi before making it to Singapore, Jakarta, or wherever else has fancy sushi buffets(i'm assuming they aren't in Ko Pha Ngan.)
We then hopped the Sky Train back to a night market which takes place on a couple small alleys. The night market had tons of fake stuff(as always), a lot of crazy knives, tazers, and funny t shirts, as well as a healthy dose of strip club, and a morsel of the famous Thai lady boy scene, along with some awesome bars that we hung out at and watched the world cup. Amazingly, after the Uruguay Korea game ended, we were able to find an honest cab driver who drove us back to our backpacker ghetto neighborhood for just 2 bucks and change! The big thing in bangkok, is that all the cab drivers and tuk tuk drivers offer you really cheap rides, but want to take you to "just one stop" to some random store or tour agency where they will then harass you to buy something. It is really annoying, especially cause we have offered to pay normal rates for a normal ride, only to be told that we could pay 25 cents, but we just have to make one stop for 5 minutes. This is one of the oldest BS scams in Bangkok, and apparently leads to hours of being dragged around from stupid place to stupid place being annoyed in to buying something. Additionally, most cabs here try to just offer ignorant tourists a set price for a ride, which is usually double what the meter would charge.... Luckily, we got a normal cab to drive us straight back, which was a refreshing change from the theme of the past day or so.
Overall Bangkok is awesome. We havent seen any hint of the rally's or protests that were so often in the news a month or two ago. Besides a couple random police officers at checkpoints in the city looking in cars and metal detectors going in to the malls, there is basically nothing out of the ordinary. Apparently, things come and go quite fast in this city. The city is bustling, fun, and really modern, and there is tons to do, great food and nothing really to complain about. I think that this is probably a great time to see the city, as tourism is a bit quieter than normal, and people are eager to do business and be hospitable. The city is modern, but has some great colonial style buildings mixed among the urban scene, creating a really beautiful touch of old and new. There is easy places to get water, 7-11's everywhere, and tons of great western food, bakeries, coffee shops, all mixed in with tons of amazing thai restaurants. I know, it sounds bad to be happy about all the western stuff, but it is nice to be able to get a normal, fair price for a cold water without having to bargain just to get the local price for a liter of water.) The city is beautiful, and riding down the river on the bus boat was really a great way to see the beautiful temples, churches, and skyscrapers that dot the horizon. I never really realized how much was actually in Bangkok, but there definitely is a lot to do.... maybe not huge tourist sites that are world famous, but just wandering around and soaking up the culture is fun.
A couple of notes..... The city has some sort of connection to SF. I found a place called "Villains SF", a fancy shoe store just like the one on Haight st. I'm not sure if they ripped off the name, or if it is connected, but it certainly seemed so. There is tons of cool skate shops and modern clothes places. There is tons of hebrew in our neighborhood, as well as a Chabad, and many Israeli people. One of the first people we spoke with, Omri, who has been working at a tour agency here for 9 months, is from Israel. I asked him whats with all the Hebrew everywhere and he said that Thai people(especially girls,) love Israeli guys and culture, but couldn't really elaborate past that. I'm still not sure what is up with it, but there is hebrew everywhere here in Khao San.
Thailand Vs. Argentina. The first thing I noticed as we drove in to Thailand was that it totally resembles Argentina. Maybe not in an absolutely literal way, but overall the vibe is very similar. Both countries look similar to the other countries surrounding them, but are much more developed and modern. The roads here are great, and it was so nice to go a normal speed on the highway and not risk a head on collision every 20 seconds. There is beautiful fields, mountains and countryside, clean and not so run down. Even in the middle of nowhere, people live at a nice standard, and are not totally poor and pennyless. But yeah, overall the country(from the little I have seen so far) is basically like Argentina, very western at times, but also uniquely a part of it's region. It is nice to be able to experience the vibe of SE asia, while also having a small taste of the luxuries of the west, even if that is just a set price for water, or a quick drive down a well paved road(I know sounds bad.) All in all, Thailand is by far the most at home i've felt in a long time, although I still think Luang Prabang is amazing!
how's it going out there?
We have finally made it to Thailand! I am so happy, and feel like our trip is just getting started! We left Cambodia yesterday at noon, and arrived in Bangkok via Bus around 730pm. The trip was totally uneventful, and the border crossing was chill, besides the 350m i had to carry my super heavy bag filled with Angkor Tshirts through the sweltering sun from the Cambodia side to the Thai side. At the border we switched from a crowded Cambodian "VIP" bus, to a super nice extra large Mercedes Mini Van type thing.... a great way to travel!
The bus dropped us off in Th Khao San, the "backpacker ghetto" of Bangkok. Backpackers, definitely. Ghetto, not so much.
While there definitely isn't any Ritz Carltons in sight, this is a pretty chill neighborhood, and it isn't run down at all(in perspective.) the neighborhood is basically one street, that runs a few hundred meters, with a couple bustling streets around it. Th Khao San, the main street in the neighborhood, is filled with bars, clubs, tshirts, food stands, tour agencies, cafes, and anything else a young tourist might want.
We spent an hour or so wandering around last night looking for the best place to stay, and were a little torn between whether to choose a rather run down private room with a fan and bathroom, or a rather run down dormitory with 4 beds, AC, and no private bathroom for the same price, 300baht(around 9US.) We eventually opted for the AC dorm at the Rainbow Guest House, directly above the Rainbow Indian Restaurant. We have had private rooms since Hanoi, and thought it would be fun to be a bit more social, maybe meet some people, and enjoy the AC.... plus this place has awesome WiFi, so that was a big plus(and allowed us to quickly post all the pics seen below!)
After checking in, we didn't do too much, just wandered around, got some awesome Pad Thai w/ chicken for a dollar, and then some Thai Soup with onions, cabbage, tofu and pork that was kinda like the inside of the wantons in wanton soup. The soup was awesome, and was a great intro to Thai cuisine. The pad thai is basically the same as you would expect, hardly different from the US at all. I'm not sure whether i'm happy or sad about that, but it is definitely tasty. The street vendors have a big round flat griddle on their little cart, with 4 or 5 different kinds of noodles all set up in a row for you to see. You get to choose which kind of noodle you want, then you pick egg or no egg, shrimp, chicken, or vegetarian.
Today, we woke up and caught the river boat bus type thing down the river towards the main part of town. From there, we cought the Bangkok Sky Train(Basically an L) from the Saphan Taksin stop to the Siam stop at the heart of the shopping district. First, we went to the large Siam Shopping mall, which is similar to a fancy US shopping mall. We just walked around there for a few minutes, just long enough for me to check out the G shocks at the Casio store(and find out that they are basically the cheapest prices in the world!!!) From there we walked a few blocks towards the Bangkok Arts and Culture Center, which has been descriped as a rip off of the Guggenheim in NYC. The arts center had some really cool exhibits, was free, and was a fun place to walk around and cool off for a few minutes.
From there, we headed a few blocks NW to the house of Jim Thompson, a famous American-Australian Silk Trader who mysteriously disappearead in 1967. He is famous for bringing Thai style to western cultures, and made a fortune importing silk from Thailand to the west. He is beloved by the Thai people for embracing their culture and style, and glorifying their heritage to parts of the world that never knew about it previously. His home is absolutely amazing, and it is impeccably furnished and designed. It was built out of 6 older traditional Thai homes made of teak, combining all of them in to one cohesive building on the banks of the canal(Bangkok was described as the Venice of the east before modernizing recently.) His house is breathtaking, and the tour begins by entering and wandering through the large gardens, which are absolutely gorgeous. His house is built on stilts, to protect from flooding, which is traditional Thai style. The area under the main structure is a large open room with beautiful sculptures, amazing wood carvings, priceless large ceramics from around the world, and stunning garden views. There are several small houses around the property that were used for rice storage, the maids quarters, and the gardeners home, which have all been turned in to exhibition halls of his amazing ceramics and silk collections. The inside of his home(which we were not allowed to take pictures of), is styled with as much taste as any home in the world. While using simple architectural structures, 6 older rather modest homes combined, the whole unit is combined seamlessly. There is traditional Thai woodwork, collections of chinese and SE Asian pottery that are as good as any scene in museums, italian marble floors in just the right places, 300 year old silk tapestries, antiques he collected at markets from all over asia, chandeleirs from europe, and all kinds of awesome unique pieces that he created. His lights in the living room are antique drums turned upside down. in his bedroom he has what looks like a dollhouse with a glass front that is actually a maze for mice that rich children in China used as a toy a hundred years ago(Jin had never seen one, just heard of them.) He has astrological charts on the wall from specific days 60 years ago, antique oversized books, Thai day beds, all mixed together with thousand year old buddhist statues he collected, etc! It was truly awesome, and made me want to live in a house with just shutters, no AC, and a killer garden with Koi Pond! It is a fantastic example of how to tastefully combine different cultural relics, antiques, funky swap meet finds, and combine them all in to a museum quality home! I was totally impressed(in case you haven't figured that out by my writing!)
From there, we went to the MBK, the newest and largest shopping mall in Bangkok. All these malls and the house were very close to one another, within 6 blocks. We walked around the mall for a while, which is basically a huge indoor market full of fake western clothes, electronics real and fake, CD's, video games, and tons of different kinds of food. We walked around for a while looking at random stuff, then headed to a Sushi conveyer belt/hot pot all you can eat place. For 9 bucks, i ate for an hour straight! The conveyer belt had raw meat, fish, and vegetables that you could drop in your personal hot pot and cook to your liking, while there was a buffet with a few choice Nigiri selections and some tasty rolls. I know, i know, Sushi on our second day in Thailand? well, we've been craving it since China, and haven't seen a decent, affordable place in months! We both assumed it would be our last chance to eat cheap, good sushi before making it to Singapore, Jakarta, or wherever else has fancy sushi buffets(i'm assuming they aren't in Ko Pha Ngan.)
We then hopped the Sky Train back to a night market which takes place on a couple small alleys. The night market had tons of fake stuff(as always), a lot of crazy knives, tazers, and funny t shirts, as well as a healthy dose of strip club, and a morsel of the famous Thai lady boy scene, along with some awesome bars that we hung out at and watched the world cup. Amazingly, after the Uruguay Korea game ended, we were able to find an honest cab driver who drove us back to our backpacker ghetto neighborhood for just 2 bucks and change! The big thing in bangkok, is that all the cab drivers and tuk tuk drivers offer you really cheap rides, but want to take you to "just one stop" to some random store or tour agency where they will then harass you to buy something. It is really annoying, especially cause we have offered to pay normal rates for a normal ride, only to be told that we could pay 25 cents, but we just have to make one stop for 5 minutes. This is one of the oldest BS scams in Bangkok, and apparently leads to hours of being dragged around from stupid place to stupid place being annoyed in to buying something. Additionally, most cabs here try to just offer ignorant tourists a set price for a ride, which is usually double what the meter would charge.... Luckily, we got a normal cab to drive us straight back, which was a refreshing change from the theme of the past day or so.
Overall Bangkok is awesome. We havent seen any hint of the rally's or protests that were so often in the news a month or two ago. Besides a couple random police officers at checkpoints in the city looking in cars and metal detectors going in to the malls, there is basically nothing out of the ordinary. Apparently, things come and go quite fast in this city. The city is bustling, fun, and really modern, and there is tons to do, great food and nothing really to complain about. I think that this is probably a great time to see the city, as tourism is a bit quieter than normal, and people are eager to do business and be hospitable. The city is modern, but has some great colonial style buildings mixed among the urban scene, creating a really beautiful touch of old and new. There is easy places to get water, 7-11's everywhere, and tons of great western food, bakeries, coffee shops, all mixed in with tons of amazing thai restaurants. I know, it sounds bad to be happy about all the western stuff, but it is nice to be able to get a normal, fair price for a cold water without having to bargain just to get the local price for a liter of water.) The city is beautiful, and riding down the river on the bus boat was really a great way to see the beautiful temples, churches, and skyscrapers that dot the horizon. I never really realized how much was actually in Bangkok, but there definitely is a lot to do.... maybe not huge tourist sites that are world famous, but just wandering around and soaking up the culture is fun.
A couple of notes..... The city has some sort of connection to SF. I found a place called "Villains SF", a fancy shoe store just like the one on Haight st. I'm not sure if they ripped off the name, or if it is connected, but it certainly seemed so. There is tons of cool skate shops and modern clothes places. There is tons of hebrew in our neighborhood, as well as a Chabad, and many Israeli people. One of the first people we spoke with, Omri, who has been working at a tour agency here for 9 months, is from Israel. I asked him whats with all the Hebrew everywhere and he said that Thai people(especially girls,) love Israeli guys and culture, but couldn't really elaborate past that. I'm still not sure what is up with it, but there is hebrew everywhere here in Khao San.
Thailand Vs. Argentina. The first thing I noticed as we drove in to Thailand was that it totally resembles Argentina. Maybe not in an absolutely literal way, but overall the vibe is very similar. Both countries look similar to the other countries surrounding them, but are much more developed and modern. The roads here are great, and it was so nice to go a normal speed on the highway and not risk a head on collision every 20 seconds. There is beautiful fields, mountains and countryside, clean and not so run down. Even in the middle of nowhere, people live at a nice standard, and are not totally poor and pennyless. But yeah, overall the country(from the little I have seen so far) is basically like Argentina, very western at times, but also uniquely a part of it's region. It is nice to be able to experience the vibe of SE asia, while also having a small taste of the luxuries of the west, even if that is just a set price for water, or a quick drive down a well paved road(I know sounds bad.) All in all, Thailand is by far the most at home i've felt in a long time, although I still think Luang Prabang is amazing!
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